A first-time visit to India can leave travlers awestruck. There’s so much to look at that your camera finger could get tired. There’s the Taj Mahal, of course, whose familiar iconic images do little to prepare visitor for the fabled monument to love. And there’s Varanasi where the spiritual bathe on steps that disappear into the holy and historic but filthy Ganges. But the everyday scenes can be just as striking, in their majesty and beauty or in their wretchedness and despair.